Monday, January 29, 2018

Chapel of St. Catherine, Velh Goa

Jo got this sudden urge to do some sketching. Well and good! He wanted to go somewhere, sit there and sketch. Even better! He said we should start in the morning and be back by afternoon. I said, "a picnic lunch?" and got on the job of getting ready a lovely lunch for the three of us, an architectural intern including. Bright and early on sunday morning, packed our picnic basket and clutching our sketch books and pencils, we set off to Velha Goa or old Goa. 
Since there was no plan as such, we parked where there was parking available, and sauntered on. We came across this beautiful old structure, and stopped there. It turns out to be  the Chapel of St. Catherine. It is right next to the archaeological survey of India museum. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site in Velha Goa.
That is we spent the next two and half hours sketching and studying the monument.  
 
It is the perfectly proportioned Chapel I have seen. It is constructed in laterite stone, which having been exposed to the monsoons of Goa, and the salty humid weather, turned to beautiful burnished red and brown shades. Part of the front facade is plastered in lime mortar.
The two towers flank the main entrance on either side. Surprisingly on the entrance door posts, lintel and jamb are made of light grey granite along with a door jamb on another door. Rest is all in laterite. 
 
The name plate states that the Chapel was constructed in 1510AD bu Alfonso de Albuquerque to commemorate his entry into the city on St. Catherine's day. It was rebuilt in 1952.
The Chapel sits on a gently sloping site, with lawns on three sides.
 
The interiors are simple; granite stone slabs for the flooring, laterite stone walls and ceiling in above the altar, which keep the place very cool and airy.
 
There is a choir gallery above the entrance area, facing the altar, the stairs to which are from the side verandah.
 
There is a wide walkway on the side.
There are a couple of plaques of stone inscriptions on the walls in Portugese language.
For the students of architecture, there is a lot to learn from the perfect proportions, the forms, and the material from this jewel of a monument dating back to the 16th. century.

Thursday, January 25, 2018

Batalha Monastery - Portugal

Second day of our stay at Alcobaca, we headed out to see Batalha Monastery right after a good breakfast. From our research on the internet, we learnt that half a days sight seeing is adequate for Batalha Monastery. There are frequent buses from Alcobaca to Batalha. So we boarded one and excited to see another great Monastery...
The distance was about 22 kms. in the north westerly direction, and the bus stop is quite close to Batalha monastery. As you are nearing the destination, you will see the spires and towers looming into the sky and your pulse quickens.  
As per UNESCO.org:
 The Monastery of the Dominicans of Batalha was built to commemorate the victory of the Portuguese over the Castilians at the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385. It was to be the Portuguese monarchy's main building project for the next two centuries. Here a highly original, national Gothic style evolved, profoundly influenced by Manueline art, as demonstrated by its masterpiece, the Royal Cloister.
 Constructed in fulfilment of a vow by King João to commemorate the victory over the Castilians at Aljubarrota (15 August 1385), the Dominican Monastery of Batalha, in the centre of Portugal, is one of the masterpieces of Gothic art. The greater part of the monumental complex dates from the reign of João I (1385-1433), when the church (finished in 1416), the royal cloister, the chapter-house, and the funeral chapel of the founder were constructed.
 
Front view of the monastery
 
Unfinished chapels
 
It was the first time I was the flying buttresses for real. We had studied them I history of architecture while in college. This was a real treat
 
Founder's chapel
 
Buttresses supporting the external wall
          Main entrance                        Statues of Apostles on entrance portal
Built of limestone, originally, with time, became yellow ochre.
 
                             Main entrance from inside               Looking at the altar 
It is long and narrow church, measuring 22m in length and 32.4m in height. The cluster columns are a feast to the eyes.
           Beautiful Keystones in the roof                                         Tomb of John and Philippa
      
                        Stained glass window       Compound Cluster columns and ribbed vaulted roof
  
King John 1 Cloisters of Monastery
  
Exquisite Tracery work in arches in the cloisters of the monastery, over looking the central courtyard.
   
            Manueline arches in Unfinished chapels       Portal of the Unfinished Chapels
  
A very well maintained architectural wonder, it is a must visit place if you are visiting Portugal. Do keep half a day for the enjoyment of the beauty and serenity of this monastery at Batalha.

Wednesday, January 3, 2018

Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaca - Alcobaca Monastery

Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaca or the Alcobaca Monastery dominates the surroundings. There is enough open space on all three sides to really appreciate the gigantic Church and monastery. The scale and form are a true architectural wonder. Cannot even imagine that this structure has been built in 1153 AD. It was founded by the first Portuguese King Afonso Henriques. 
It is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
It was the first church to be built in early Gothic style. Subsequently different styles were added to it. The church is 106 m long, 17 m wide, and internal height of 20 m. Because of these dimensions, Alcobaca Monastery is the largest Churches in Portugal, even to date.
 
Window detail on bell tower and the plan showing the layout of the Alcobaca church and Monstery
 
Main entrance to the church and main entrance to Monastery
It was the first time I had seen a real Gothic church built during that period. The size and grandeur took my breath away.
  
Main entrance door
 
Corinthian column capitals in Bell tower
Refectory
 
Refecory
 
Huge chimney in the kitchen
 
Stone table for preparation of food in the kitchen
 
Plumbing system in the kitchen, Inlet and outlet
 
Dormitory on the first floor
 
Fountain house and the courtyard
Courtyard with cloister around it
 
Dome over main chapel
Main chapel
Base of cluster columns in the Church and the central nave
 
Tomb of King Pedro and Inez de Castro
 
Chapter house and Manueline doorway to Sacristy

Bertradaburg, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany

We made a trip to Eifel, in the middle of April, 2021, in western region of Germany. It was a day trip and a pleasant drive to the Bertradab...